Tash Socks

My daughter has been begging me for AGES to make some socks for her TY Beanie Boo Tasha. Well, we've had three snow days in a row and I needed to know how much the cardboard in the middle weighs (What's That Thing Called?) so I finally made them.  I don't know that anyone else will ever want this pattern, but I figured that I might as well post it just in case there were any others out there with Beanie Boos that have cold feet.

They are really quick to make and I'm sure they could easily be made following the same pattern with a light weight yarn rather than the crochet cotton.  Here it is.

Size H crochet hook

Make 2 for front paws

Holding three strands of size 10 crochet cotton, 8 sc in magic loop. Sl in 1st st.

Round 1: ch1, 2dc in same st, 2dc in each sc around, sl in 1st st. (16 dc)

Round 2: ch1, 2cd in same st, dc next st, (2dc in next st, dc next st) around, sl in 1st st. (24 dc)

Round 3: ch1, 2cd in same st, dc next 2 st, (2dc in next st, dc 2 next st) around, sl in 1st st. (32 dc)

Round 4: ch 1, sc around (making sure the 1st one is in the same st), sl in 1st st. (32 sc)

Round 5: ch 1, sc around in back loops only, sl in 1st st. (32 sc)

Rounds 6-9: ch 1, dc around, sl in 1st st. (32 dc)

Round 10: ch 1, 8 dc, 2 hdc, (sc2tog, sc) 4 times, 2 hdc, 8 dc, sl in 1st st. (16 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc2tog, 4 sc)

Round 11: ch 1, 10 sc, sc2tog 4 times, 10 sc, sl in 1st st. (4 sc2tog, 20 sc)

Round 12: ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sk next st) around, sl in 1st st. (12 ch-3 spaces, 12 sc)

Finish off and weave in ends.  Make bow on front if desired.

Make 2 for back paws

Rounds 1-5 as for front paws

Round 6-8: sl next 8 st (be sure to make your sl sts loosely), 3 hdc, 10 dc, 3 hdc, sl next 8 st

Round 9: sl next 8 st, 2 hdc, (sc2tog, sc) 4 times, 2 hdc, sl next 8 st

Round 10: ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sk next st) around, sl in 1st st.

Until the next time, may the stitch counts be ever in your favor...

What's that thing called???

As my work continues on my Lacet Table Runner it becomes clear that toward the end, I'm going to have to weigh my thread to make sure I have enough to finish.  The only problem is that there's that darn cardboard cylinder in the middle of the balls of crochet cotton thread that will obviously skew the number of grams I have left.  So I did what we all do these days when we need information ... I googled it and ...

NOTHING!

I could not find anything that came close to giving me suggestions for how much that cardboard weighed.  Perhaps it is in part because no one seems to know what the blasted thing is called.  Here are some suggestions I've heard from my post in the Official CCC Social Group on Facebook: Sleeve, core, cone, cylinder, spool.  Well, I don't know what it's called but now I have three empty ones to know how much they weigh.

Naturally, when I couldn't find the weight anywhere online, I decided that I would have to find a use for the four other balls of crochet cotton that have been collecting dust on my shelf.  No, literally ...

    (Gross!)

No way I wanted to make something else with thread, but I decided that I could quickly crochet something holding three strands at once.  My daughter has been wanting socks for her kitty Tasha (a TY Beanie Boo), so I figured this would work out ok.  I've cleverly named them Tash Socks (get it yarny people?) and the pattern is available here. 

So I have made four socks, a leash, and now a scarf out of partial balls of crochet cotton.

Which has now been stolen by this cute thing.

Anyway, now to the important stuff ... here are my findings about the cardboard cylinder at the center of the crochet cotton:

The Aunt Lydia's Classic 10 weighs 20-21g and the Hobby Lobby Artiste weighs 33g.  Obviously for either of them, that would be the equivalent to ALOT of yards of thread.  So now we know have a little bit better idea of an average cardboard cylinder.  I will continue to add information for averages as I have more cylinders or get measurements from you all!

Until the next time, may the stitch counts be ever in your favor... 

Update: Upon weighing another tube that I just finished, we have another Aunt Lydia's tube that weighs 20g.

Lacet Table Runner

Similarly to my last post, I have a family order to complete.  My MIL would like a crocheted table runner.  Now, it might be that I'm just not looking in the right places, but I had a terrible time finding patterns to choose from.  Well, part of that could be because I wanted to continue using up some #10 thread that I already had around the house...

We threw around some patterns and decided on this Lacet Table Runner pattern.  Looks pretty easy, I thought to myself.  Yeah, about that ... one of two things quickly became apparent.  Either I was NOT accomplished enough to read a "vintage" pattern or else the pattern was missing some key elements that I was used to seeing.  Actually, I'm not convinced that it wasn't some of both.

Anyway, after ripping out the same few rows several times, trying to make heads or tails of row 3 (which seems to me like a double row or some such nonsense), and having to wear a bandaid for a few days because I kept stabbing myself with the No. 6 (1.0mm) crochet hook, which is by far the SMALLEST hook I've ever used, I decided to just do it however I wanted to and make notes.  I'm quite happy to say that it's coming along nicely now.

I will be circling back around and putting the updated, non-vintage version of the pattern here on the blog in the near future, so keep your eyes peeled.  I'd love to have a tester or two. :)  Volunteers can comment below and I'll make sure you know when it comes out.  (Is there anyone here that actually follows this blog?  Lol.)

Until next time, may the stitch counts be ever in your favor.

Update - 1/24/29:

Here is the pattern.  I haven't finished mine yet, so I intellectually worked the pattern "backwards" to finish out the ending of the pattern.  I still have another 3' or so to go (ughhhhhhhh)...

Foundation/Row 1: Using a No. 6 steel crochet hook and size 10 crochet cotton, chain 136.  (A tip I learned recently is to chain a few extra because you can always just tink those extra stitches, but it would be a pain if you came up short on the foundation row and had to take out all of row 1!)  DC in 4th chain from hook (counts as first DC here and throughout). 131 DC. (132 DC)

Row 2: Ch 3 (again, counts as first DC). 2 DC.  *Ch 3, sk next two st, sl next st, ch 3, sk next two st, DC. Ch 6, sk next 5 st, DC.* Repeat from * to * nine more times.  Ch 3, sk next two st, sl next st, ch 3, sk next two st, 3 DC. (26 DC, 11 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 10 ch-6 sp)

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 DC. *Ch 6, sk (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, DC in DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in DC.* Repeat from * to * nine more times.  Ch 6, sk (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, DC in next 3 DC. (26 DC, 11 ch-6 sp, 10 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp)

Row 4:  Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in DC. (2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in sl st, 2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in DC, 5 DC in ch-6 sp, DC in DC) across to last ch-6 sp.  Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next 3 DC. (2 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 121 DC)

Row 5: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next three DC. (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) across to last 2 DC before the ch-3 sp.  2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next three DC.  (2 ch-6 sp, 66 DC, 55 ch-1 sp)

Row 6: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next three DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) across to last 2 DC before the ch-3 sp.  2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next three DC.  (2 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 66 DC, 55 ch-1 sp)

Rows 7-14: Repeat rows 5 and 6.

Row 15: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 6. (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times.  (DC in next ch-1 sp, DC in next DC) 34 times. (Ch1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC, Ch 6, DC. (2 ch-6 sp, 101 DC, 20 ch-1 sp)

Row 16: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3. DC in next 3 DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. *Ch 3, sk next two st, sl next st, ch 3, sk next two st, DC. Ch 6, sk next 5 st, DC.* Repeat from * to * four more times.   Ch 3, sk next two st, sl next st, ch 3, sk next two st, 3 DC. (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next 3 DC.  (8 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 5 ch-6 sp, 36 DC, 20 ch-1 sp)

Row 17: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next 3 DC. (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. *Ch 6, DC in next DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in DC.* Repeat from * to * four more times. Ch 6, DC in next 3 DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next 3 DC. (5 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 8 ch-6 sp, 36 DC, 20 ch-1 sp)

Row 18: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3. DC in next 3 DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. *Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in DC. Ch 6, DC in next DC. * Repeat from * to * four more times. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next 3 DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next 3 DC. (8 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 5 ch-6 sp, 36 DC, 20 ch-1 sp)

Repeat rows 17 and 18 until about 3" short of desired length, ending with row 18.

Ending row 1: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next 3 DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. (2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in sl st, 2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in DC, 5 DC in ch-6 sp, DC in DC) five times. 2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in sl st, 2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in next 3 DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) ten times. 2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next 3 DC. (2 ch-6 sp, 101 DC, 20 ch-1 sp)

Ending row 2: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next three DC.  (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) across to last 2 DC before the ch-3 sp.  2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next three DC.  (2 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 66 DC, 55 ch-1 sp)

Ending row 3: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next three DC. (Ch 1, sk next st, DC in next DC) across to last 2 DC before the ch-3 sp.  2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next three DC.  (2 ch-6 sp, 66 DC, 55 ch-1 sp)

Ending rows 4-11: Repeat ending rows 2 and 3.

Ending row 12: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next 3 DC.  (DC in ch-1 sp, DC in DC) across to last ch-1 sp. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next 3 DC. (2 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 121 DC)

Ending row 13: Ch 3, 2 DC. Ch 6, DC in next DC. *Ch 3, sk next two st, sl next st, ch 3, sk next two st, DC. Ch 6, sk next 5 st, DC.* Repeat from * to * eight more times.  Ch 3, sk next two st, sl next st, ch 3, sk next two st, Ch 6, DC in next 3 DC. (26 DC, 10 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 11 ch-6 sp)

Ending row 14: Ch 3, 2 DC. *Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next DC. Ch 6, DC in next DC.* Repeat from * to * nine more times. Ch 3, sl in ch-6 sp, ch 3, DC in next 3 DC. (26 DC, 11 (ch-3, sl, ch-3) sp, 10 ch-6 sp)

Ending row 15: (This probably needs to be worked fairly tightly.) Ch 3, 2 DC. (2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in sl st, 2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in DC, 5 DC in ch-6 sp, DC in DC) ten times. 2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in sl st, 2 DC in ch-3 sp, DC in next 3 DC.

FINAL ROW!!!!!  Ch 1, sl st across.  Finish off, weave in ends, block.

Please let me know if you find any mistakes, as I wrote this looking at the work I'd already done rather than writing it down as I go.  I will get it figured out and fixed right away!

Final update 3/24/19:  My table runner has finally been finished, blocked, and delivered.  Here are a couple of pictures of the finished product in its new home!

Blueberry Swirl Cowl

My sister in law wanted me to make her a new hat.  As we all do (well, at least as I do), I got into my stash to see if there was something there that struck her fancy. After narrowing it down to two super bulky yarns, we looked up some different hat patterns.

We settled in on Perky Little Hat by Sharon Lentsch (which is a free Ravelry download) and I got started.  Super quick and easy pattern!  Then came the big problem.  Well, I suppose the second big problem because, I mean --- Have you ever TRIED to tie the string on a pom pom made of super bulky yarn?  It's DEFINITELY a two person job!

Anyway... the big problem.  When you only need to use a little over half of a skein of super bulky yarn, what do you do with the rest of the skein?  You make a matching cowl, weighing the remainder after every round.  I am super excited to share this with you all!

I LOVE how this turned out AND I got to completely use up a whole skein of yarn from my stash with no left overs.

So here's what you need to know:

Abbreviations & Terms:

CO – Cast on

K – Knit

P – Purl

YO – Yarn Over

K2tog – Knit two together

Materials:

• US size 15 circular needles

• Tapestry needle or crochet hook to weave in ends

• Super Bulky yarn – I used 1 skein of Yarn Bee Effortless in “blueberry” to make the cowl and the Perky Little Hat by Sharon Lentsch.

Pattern:

CO 40 using size 15 US needles

Join in round, taking care not to twist. (Here is a link to the way I like to do the join. Joining in the Round) Don’t forget to put in a marker at the beginning of the round!

Round 1: K around

Rounds 2 & 3: P around

Round 4: K around

Rounds 5-??: (YO, K2tog) around. Repeat this row as many times as you like. I did it 13 times. Make sure that you are weighing your yarn as you go. I played yarn chicken and ...

 .... got really lucky!

Repeat rounds 1-4. Bind off. Weave in ends.

I hope you love this pattern!  Feel free to sell items made with this pattern, but please don’t claim it as your own.  If you post any pictures of it, please give me credit for it!

I called it blueberry swirl because the color of the yarn is blueberry and the diagonal lines formed by the K2tog/YO pattern swirl around the hat. And, seriously, Blueberry Swirl sounds like an amazing dessert (or maybe just like the Smurf ice cream I got at King's Island as a kid).

I am anxious to make another one and maybe play with the diagonal patterns a little bit more, so keep your eyes peeled. In the meantime, hop over to my Etsy shop to check out my very most favorite design, the Twists & Turns Scarf.

Until next time, may the stitch counts be ever in your favor.